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Thursday, June 21, 2007

Bombay in my soul

Some experiences leave you thinking.Some make you introspect.Some leave you humbled.Some leave you numb.Others make you exalt.They make you see life.Some even leave you confused.And some make you fall in love. Mumbai; gives you everything.

Enough has been said about Mumbai actually, not to mention the countless writings and movies based on it. So much that it had almost become the great Indian dream-to come to "Bombay" and see their fate take a turn.This is because Mumbai; by its very presence ;reminds you of hope, of dreams coming true, of what a common man might become, with of course a little bit of luck. And that is exactly what most of the people who come to Mumbai wish-a little bit of luck.

I used to visit my grandparents at Girgaon.I used to catch a train to VT then.But then, (to my disappointment..), they shifted to Vashi.And then it was always the bus journey to Mumbai for many many years.Somehow, going by bus doesnt quite fit the bill. It feels stupid to go to Mumbai by bus.The other day I heard a catchy tune on Mirchi. So catchy that I limewired it .And it turned out that it was from a movie titled "Ek Chalis ki Aakhri Local".. and there's a dude in the song who says "Mumbai- suna hai yahan pe sari zindagi slow track se fast track jaane mein nikal jaati hai" ..and it got me thinking for while.I thought I would like to experience this.And as we know, coincidences do happen in the most unexpected places, I had to go to "Mumbai" due to some urgent work..and that too by train!! I was as excited as a small kid who is about to go on his first train journey.

So, the good old Deccan Queen lent me wheels, I mean many wheels, to Bombay.I was sitting by the window,... almost by the window actually, (there was this stupid, IITian looking guy sitting at the window seat and not even looking out of the window!! ) and guess what.. I see a girl almost exactly like Amrita Rao. She was with her group of friends and almost in the next bogie...sha !! As we know, coincidences do not happen when we want them.!! The train journey was pretty pleasant, with my chinese make duplicate ipod and the typical Deccan Queen cutlets.One guy actually changed, (only his shirt..), in the train.When asked, he replied that he had no other option.With Mumbai's weather, if one is going to a function or something , one has to change clothes in public.Interesting I thought. I almost blurted out ,"look at me..I am also going to a wedding"..but I was on foreign ground, so thought better to shut up. Yes , the journey was definitely pleasant.

Mumbai doesnt come unscented. I mean you get this typical smell when that vertical strip of land on Maharashtra's west coast is approaching, and the smell is actually not of the land, but of the sea.And later, this scent is crudely mixed with toxic gutters and sweat.Uh !! I know, but one can't do anything about it, it simply isn't available in unscented variety.!! I came to know my uncle was in the same train, but a different bogie and he was also heading for the same wedding.Did I say coincidences happen when you least expect them ? Well some how I managed to find him through the crowd and we boarded a taxi. Now, please do not expect that you would be having a Nana Patekar like taxi driver.In fact I was on a alert and looking out for all signs of that taxi driver hoodwinking me.But thats where I went wrong.

The taxi driver actually turned out to be very friendly.He was sharp too.Just by looking at my uncle, he rightly guessed he was a doctor.From his talks, I concluded he was quite well educated also.He in fact took us by the shortest path.Just when we were about to reach the marriage hall, he stopped the vehicle.He suggested we get down and cross the road, else for a taxi to take a long U and come back, it would cost us at least 25 Rs more.I was surprised.I was in Mumbai, where one is supposed to make money by hook or crook...and here was a guy who was actually letting go 25 Rs? My uncle was surprised too.He literally asked him to explain why he would let go the money.The taxi driver smiled and coolly replied " Paachis rupaye ki koi kimat nahi hai sahab, aap yahi se chale jaiye.." This was probably my first encounter with the soul of Mumbai.

The soul of Mumbai does exist and you would experience that once you give in to the city.Imagine you are at a bus stop daily, and there are other regular travellers too.People in Pune probably wouldn't bother.But its different in Mumbai.In Mumbai, you would not talk on the first day, lets say on the second day too, but on the third day, you know the other person's name at least.And in the course of time, he's an acquaintance and you probably know about his family also.

You literally feel the difference between Mumbai and other cities in a very subtle but definite way.I was coming to my grandfather's house from Vashi railway station in a rickshaw.We stopped at a traffic signal, and there a small girl,must be aged about 10, came up to sell flower garlands, or "gajre" as we call them.My mom asked her the price just out of curiosity..she replied "dus ka do memsahab".My mom said ,"nahi chahiye".The girl insisted we buy them and offered "dus ka teen lena memsahab..".Still my mom wasn't convinced.She probably had Pune prices in her mind.The girl kept insisting we buy from her..and offered "dus ka char.."..now by this time I was a bit angry with my mom.I told my mom she shouldn't have entertained that girl in the first place if she wasn't actually interested in buying the garlands.I felt we were taking advantage of that girl, and that poor girl was bringing down the prices like anything.I told my mother to buy something now.Reluctantly my mother did buy four for ten. I think the girl somehow gathered that it was because of me that my mother bought it.And was she grateful? ..She said one of the sweetest "Thank you" to me.I was taken aback by the sweetness and the fact that she spoke in English.And then she ran away.How many times do we say thank you even when we should.?

Then, at that other time when I was at VT, trying to catch a local, I was mesmerised by the rush and speed of people walking.The blur of people which we see in the movies, is not camera effects. People really move at that speed and the net effect of thousands of people moving at such speed in a small space is mind boggling.If you stand still and keep watching, chances are that you would go dizzy.And at such a place too; people find time to exlplain you how to read and interpret the complex displays which show the time tables for local trains !

Drive through Marine Drive and you would know what a "drive" is.That strip of road is an epitome of Mumbai.Somehow driving through that road gives you a feeling of achievement, a feeling that you can win the world.Somewhere in the back of your mind, the sound of waves lashing against the concrete walls keeps ringing in your ears.The road looks awesome during the night too; like a slim and sexy gold necklace.One feels confident and powerful when he rides on this road.And let me tell you, that is one of the most hep areas of Mumbai. And from that the first thing that comes to my mind is the crowd, and from that obviously the topic that comes to my mind is ,yes.,"girls".

One word for Mumbai girls..."WOW". I am in love with Mumbai girls.Man , can they carry themselves or what? Boys watch out. I have literally seen confidence radiating out of these girls.A look which says.."Life I will face you one on one". I mean, just see how even an average looking Mumbai gal would dress up-perfectly cut out and suiting the occasion.Extremely elegant and graceful. Chin up, they walk the streets of Mumbai. People, it takes guts to walk that way in Mumbai. Its not a safe city by any means and with the crowd in those buses ,locals , railway stations,and with that weather too, I would think twice before letting my sisters go out there. But these gals walk with "Don't mess with me " kind of message. Extremely smart. I simply love them.And I am not comparing with girls from other metropolitian cities, but then even though they also have similar characteristics, there is somehow some delicateness and inherent feminism and softness in Mumbai girls in a very subtle way,which is probably missing in the other cases, which could be because Mumbai humbles you very early in life and teaches you to face it. I still remember , I saw this fair girl from the bus window; she was waiting for some other bus. Man! She was looking very smart,wearing a black top, chewing a bubble gum, the breeze from the sea blowing her hair haywire on her face, and she not caring to straighten it.In one hand she had a keychain which she was revolving in an extremely nonchalant way.She could have ruled some kingdom in her previous life I can bet. And did I wish hard she would board my bus..but then again..coincidences do not happen when we want them to happen!! I cannot just forget that image. The rotating keychain was just so symbolic of her confidence and "I can stand on my feet" attitude. I am loving it.

So much for the day in the city, but even the night doesnt dampen the spirits of this place.The city comes to life with renewed vigour.Half the population, tired from the day, suddenly wakes up to get its due enjoyment and the other half, lives during the night anyway.Mumbai is colorful and looks extremely seductive during these nocturnal hours.Its lit tall buildings, as if beacons for the people coming to it from various roads,look very esquisite.Mumbai night is like a mistress-seductive,sexy,and intoxicating but at the same time dangerous.And we all know of the glamour world out there in the after hours and the famous (infamous) underworld of the city which resurfaces every night.I guess every night in this city is like a well scripted thriller. A person getting out of the house into the Mumbai night doesn't necessarily believe he might come back.But still he goes-the mistress is too tempting to deny.

The city calls you back .I was returning in a bus to Pune again.I knew I was going to return soon.And I did,for my visa interview with a wish for the usual- a litlle bit of luck.I got the visa and I was on the top of the world. Passed Hadji Ali on my way back-what a site!! Watch Hadji Ali at sunset and you do feel you connected with God. Somehow I like the fact that it was Mumbai wherein I got my visa and consequently one of the most important events in my life.I boarded a bus back to Pune.I did not want to go back.

I was spellbinded by the city.The city weaves magic.The city of dreams.The city of hopes.The city which treats the prince and the pauper same.The city of sweat and then the cool breeze that put me to sleep like a mother's gentle caress.The city of coincidences, the city of lovely girls. The city of power.Oh and I just cant forget that girl and her gyrating keychain.She flashes in front of my eyes as I leave the city, along with that girl selling garlands, along with the image of Marine drive, the sea,the local train, along with my own face I imagine after getting the visa, and along with Hadji Ali. I am glad I would be leaving my country through this city.So that I am sure I will come back to my mistress.

Bombay in my soul, Bombay in my dreams.Yeah..Bombay.!!!

1 comment:

Maanas said...

Classic capture Naiya. The way u used real incidences to bring any particular thought / emotion u experienced in / about the city is really good. Also I thought ur writing has evolved a lot since this blog (one of ur earliest I assume). Great!